Thursday, April 19, 2018

REVIEW 171: ESTRELLA DAMM

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN:  Spain

BREWERY:  Damm S.A.

STYLE:  Pale Lager

ABV:  5.4%

PURCHASE:  Six-pack of 11.2-oz. bottles, $11.99

SERVING:  11.2-oz. bottle, poured into pint glass. My 20-second "normal" pour produced an initial head of two inches. My 30-second "slow" pour yielded an ideal inch to inch-and-a-half. Decent (if unspectacular) retention, particularly for a Euro lager from outside Germany. According to the Allstrom brothers at beeradvocate.com, the label used to list "stabilizer e-405" as one of the ingredients, which aids in the maintenance of foam in the beer. What is stabilizer e-405? According to Wikipedia, it's another name for a compound called propylene glycol alginate, a commonly used food additive. What is propylene glycol alginate? I didn't get that far. Fuck do I look like? A scientist?

APPEARANCE:  Golden, but a bit on the darker side of golden for a pale lager. See-through, but a bit on the hazy side for a pale lager. Slightly off-white tinted head. Typical bubbling action. Decent, but somewhat irregular lacing.

AROMA:  Bready at first, especially with the full head in your face. (Did that come out right?)  Teases of hops and malt dextrins. Generic veggie quality to it. Even a bit ricey. Rice is also listed as one of the ingredients on the label, but thankfully at only 1%. I suppose at such a low proportion, it doesn't qualify as an adjunct. 

TASTE:  Fairly thin with what I call "passive-aggressive carbonation"; in other words, the carbonation doesn't always have the same presence, but when it shows up, it seems to act up a bit. Yeasty backbone that runs constant. It seems to crescendo a bit at the finish along with an accent of malt. The resulting aftertaste is the most balanced part of the experience, as it is ever so slightly hoppy. It's somewhat sweet overall, and not in a sugary way; the far end of the aftertaste seems to take on a Sweet'n Low character. I know the taste of Sweet'n Low very well. I don't put it in anything. I know it because when I was younger, I used to suck down packets of it with the sole purpose of getting a reaction of whoever was within a few feet of me. Boys do that stuff.

MUSINGS AND METAPHORS:  Estrella Damm dates back to 1876, when August Küntzmann Damm founded the brewery that bears his name in Barcelona, where it continues to crank out an entire line of brews. He named his flagship beer, "Estrella," which means, "star." It's the oldest beer brand in Spain, at any rate.

Küntzmann. Küntzmann. The umlaut--the two dots over the "u"--says it all. German. It was a German that originated this beer. A-ha. And watch how you pronounce that word. The two dots over the "u" is pronounced like the English short "i" sound (as in "stick"). 

It was an Austrian who founded Dos Equis in Mexico, and a German who founded Estrella Damm in Spain. In both cases, the modern version is adequate at best. Although, this is the better of the two.

The online beer snob community trashes this one, but it's really not bad. It's essentially Spain's version of Budweiser, but a tad better. And I've said this a thousand times by now: Every country has its Budweiser. Every country has to have that easily accessible "beer of all seasons," I guess. This fits that bill, though its clearly not the "star" its name alludes to.

After three of these, I think I now have Sweet-n Low breath.




GRADE:  C



Tuesday, April 17, 2018

REVIEW 170: SAMUEL ADAMS COLD SNAP (REVISITED)

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN:  USA (Jamaica Plain, MA)

BREWERY:  Boston Beer Company

STYLE:  Witbier

ABV:  5.3%

PURCHASE:  Case (two 12-packs) of 24 12-oz. bottles, $36.99

SERVING:  12-oz. bottle, poured into pint glass. Much headier from the bottle than it was on tap; took up over half the glass, initially, before "settling" into the three-inch range--and that was with a standard pour of roughly 20 seconds. A slower pour of roughly 30 seconds didn't get much less. Great retention.

APPEARANCE:  Murky, golden-orange body; "hazy" wasn't quite an adequate word here. Off-white, spongy and dense head bordering upon cream. Ever so faint bubbling visible if you look hard enough. No lacing.

AROMA:  Mostly wheat and coriander. Some orange peel and citrus notes round things out. 

TASTE:  Not fully fleshed out at the forefront; shy citrus notes are evident but not much else. Very smooth, medium-thin body with soft but still conspicuous carbonation. Fairly even, orange zest/coriander palate until the somewhat yeasty finish, when more complexity takes hold. Slightly peppery uptick at the back. Aftertaste is "wet" (as opposed to "dry" or "clean"), with orange, lemon, and a continuance of the various generic spices. (Note: This is supposedly brewed with plum as well, but I found it hard to make out. Also, I didn't notice any real banana presence as I did when I reviewed this on tap in one of my earliest entries on this blog.)

MUSINGS AND METAPHORS:  I still maintain this is a better version of Blue Moon. It's versatile and never out of place, and though it's marketed in late winter, I find it equally suitable to late spring and summer drinking. It's an outstanding thirst-quenching brew, and what I call a "juicy" beer (for obvious reasons).

That said, my original impression remains unchanged in another respect. Like a lot of Sams these days, Cold Snap is ultimately not a very memorable experience. There's too many out there like it, for one thing. More importantly, it just seems to settle in that oh-so-familiar good-but-not-great territory that, lately, seems to be Sam's hallmark.

You know what "cold snap" actually refers to? A sudden, brief spell of cold weather. Which is what we experienced yesterday in my neck of the woods (if you consider the 40s "cold").

It's also a Chinese herbal supplement.



ORIGINAL GRADE:  B

NEW GRADE:  B


Thursday, April 12, 2018

REVIEW 169: BALTIKA #7 EXPORT

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN:  Russian Federation

BREWERY:  Baltika Breweries

STYLE:  Dortmunder

ABV:  5.4%

PURCHASE:  Six-pack of 11.2-oz. bottles, $13.99

SERVING:  11.2-oz. bottle, poured into pint glass. A standard pour yielded a two-inch initial head. Average retention, more or less. A slower pour took about half an inch off the crown.

APPEARANCE:  Straw-colored, see-through body, a bit darker than your typical adjunct or macrolager. Very bright white head. Steady bubbling and almost no lacing to speak of.

AROMA:  Bready, bready, and bready. Very little hop presence and maybe a touch of generic malt. Kind of smells like a Heineken.

TASTE:  Medium-thin mouthfeel with fairly prominent carbonation. No attention-grabber here; neutrality seems to be the theme. Bready taste, mostly, and never really wavers. A bit yeastier at the finish with a slightly malty and fusel-ish aftertaste. Makes for a smooth but unremarkable sipping experience.

MUSINGS AND METAPHORS:  This is supposed to be a Dortmunder, a decidedly German style of beer. It's got the bready quality down cold. (Dortmunders are known for that.) Malt? Check, albeit minimal. Something was off, though. It seemed overcarbonated, and over-alcoholic at the end of each sip. Tasted like it could have come from Anheuser-Busch.

Well, you could consider Baltika the Russian A-B. They're the largest brewery in that country, and the second largest in Europe. Established in 1990, they were taken over by Carlsberg in 2008, but production remains in St. Petersburg.

Baltika #7 is one of a series of "numbered" brews from the relatively young brewery. They have a non-alcoholic beer aptly named "#0." This one is called "#7 Export" presumably because Dortmunders are also known as "export lagers." It should be called "#7 Bleh."




GRADE:  C-

BONUS POINTS . . . for the distinguishable peel-off bottle caps. No bottle opener needed!