REVIEW 133: MAD ELF

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN:  USA

BREWERY:  Tröegs Brewing Company

STYLE:  Strong Dark Ale

ABV:  11.0% (You read that right.)

PURCHASE:  Six-pack of 12-oz. bottles, $19.99

SERVING:  12-oz. bottle, poured into Watou branded snifter. There is almost no head with this beer from the bottle, unless you pour it abnormally fast. Even then, it disappears in seconds. Want head? Shake it!

APPEARANCE:  Ruby-burgundy color with a tan head--when it's there. Could pass for cognac or even bourbon if not for the minor bubble action. No lacing whatsoever. Perhaps a pint glass would change that--but this isn't a beer you drink from a pint glass.

BOUQUET:  Smells like a cherry orchard. More specifically, smells like a cherry orchard situated right next to a wheat field. Or a barley field, I guess. This is also brewed with honey, according to the label, but it's much, much less conspicuous. Strain and you might, as I did, pick up a hint of chocolate malt. Vague spice notes are detectable as well, but are difficult to pinpoint; I'm guessing--maybe, maybe--allspice, or maybe a touch of nutmeg and/or cinnamon. I can't make out anything else.

PALATE:  Gently carbonated with a moderate to slightly heavy body--it is, after all, a beer with an ABV in the double digits. The theme of this beer, boys and girls, is cherry. Entry is a little malty, but mainly characterized by cherry. Mid-palate retains some malt throughline, but is nonetheless mainly characterized by cherry. A toasted grain factor enters the picture at the boozy finish, which is still mainly characterized by cherry. The aftertaste is the most complex aspect of the sipping experience here: Still heavily leaning toward the cherry notes, but with some balance toward some toasted malt, seemingly of a chocolate variety. There are hops in here, but they are suppressed to the point where they are untraceable. The label advertised that this was brewed with honey, and it was at this point that I finally noticed it. You know what else I noticed? Alcohol. This seriously finishes as if it were brandy or even bourbon. That's not a complaint, just an observation.

MUSINGS AND METAPHORS:  Are elves really into cherries this much? Wow. But hey, that's not a criticism. It works here.

But in all honesty, the Mad Elf could use some more depth and dimension. It could also use some guidance. This is a beer hugely influenced by cherries. Is it supposed to be a kriek? Or is it a strong dark ale in the Belgian tradition, as advertised? The answer to that latter question is yes, in one sense: It's certainly strong. It has an alcohol factor that will sneak up on you if you're not careful. But the taste is markedly better than average. 




GRADE:  B+