REVIEW 125: EXIT 4

COUNTRY OF ORIGIN:  USA

BREWERY:  Flying Fish Brewing Company

STYLE:  Tripel

ABV:  9.5%

PURCHASE:  Draft (13-oz.), $7.00

SERVING:  Tulip glass. Initially over a full inch of head from the tap. Good retention.

APPEARANCE:  Glowing golden body with an effervescent, spongy white head. Bubbling not particularly visible. Very good lacing around the glass.

BOUQUET:  Meshing of malt, citrus, hops, and numerous spices, particularly cloves. A hint of banana. High aromatic alcohol presence.

PALATE:  If ever there were a beer with a discrepancy between aroma and taste, this is it. Perplexing to say the least. Though evident in the smell, taste-wise I had trouble making out any citrus or banana. The theme of this beer is sweetness; it starts sweet, continues sweet, finishes sweet, and lingers afterward . . . sweet. It's dextrin-happy. And the sweetness factor slightly crescendos toward the end. Fusel alcohol finish with a warming sensation, which also sees a rise in yeast and hops (though not on a pale ale level). The "far" aftertaste is somewhat spicy, as in a witbier: Cloves and coriander, with a possible touch of pepper. However, all of this is overwhelmed by the sweetness of the malt and dextrins. Tripels are supposed to sport some bitterness; this one had none. The overall taste is still agreeable; it's just lacks dimension. Thankfully, it doesn't take much effort to get through one of these; it doesn't have a very heavy body for a beer of almost 10% alcohol. Moreover, the carbonation, though prominent, remains manageable.

MUSINGS AND METAPHORS:  In 2009, Flying Fish began releasing various beers named after exits on the New Jersey Turnpike. Hence the name "Exit 4." (In real life, departing the turnpike from this exit will land you in Mt. Laurel, near the Moorestown Mall.) You may also notice they employ the alternative spelling of tripel, "trippel," with two "p"s. Just a note, not a criticism.

This is one of those beers that fleshes out a bit as you continue to drink it. Perhaps it's the tulip glass at work: The early going of each serving seemed sharp, whereas the latter half took on a slightly more rounded nature. That's good, but it makes for limited appeal. 

Want a truly world-class tripel? Go with St. Bernardus, or another highly reputable abbey brewery from Belgium, the country credited with originating this style. This one is more on the level of Victory's Golden Monkey, if even that; solid but unspectacular. Eh.




GRADE:  C+